Tony Conte, the celebrated chef who made his name at The Oval Room with modern American cuisine, is now flipping primo pies at Inferno Pizzeria Napoletana.
How did you fall in love with pizza? “On Sundays we ate at DiMatteo’s Pizza in Hamden, Connecticut, then in high school I got a job there and learned how to make it.”
Why are you doing Neapolitan-style? “My father grew up just 30 minutes north of Naples. It made sense to do what we do back home.”
You’re making your own pine salt? “In the springtime, when the pine shoots are tender—they’re lemony and gingery—I picked some to make a salt. I’m putting it on the game I cook in the wood-fired oven. It tastes perfect around the holidays.” 12207 Darnestown Road, Darnestown, 301-963-0115