With dishes like this rockfish chowder with corn, potatoes, and salt pork, chef Spike Gjerde offers high-quality rustic cooking in a new, lush setting.
Where’s Spike Gjerde? Probably running to catch a train from Union Station to his hometown of Baltimore. In August, the James Beard Award–winning chef opens his first DC restaurant, A Rake’s Progress, inside The Line Hotel in Adams Morgan. But for years, Gjerde’s DC devotees drove an hour north to eat at his critically acclaimed restaurants Woodberry Kitchen and Parts & Labor. Known for serving rustic dishes in a barn-like setting, his latest restaurant is a bit of a departure.
How is this restaurant different from your Baltimore spots? “The space is so spectacular and different, and our cooking truly reflects the setting. We’re definitely adding polish to our dishes, and we’re using a wood-fired hearth that’s perfect for spit-roasting small game. This menu features locally sourced duck, quail, chicken, and rabbit.”
What’s the dish you’re most excited about? “It’s hard to pick just one. In general, I’m excited to present locally sourced ingredients from farms around the Chesapeake region. For instance, our roasted rabbit is full of flavor because our Virginia farmer takes great pride in raising them.”
Tell us more about the space. “The restaurant has these beautiful vaulted ceilings from what was once a church. This is my first restaurant with a full-service raw bar. We’re also in great company: My friend Erik Bruner-Yang is doing food and beverage in the downstairs lobby with two restaurants, Brothers and Sisters and Spoken English.” 1770 Euclid St. NW, 202-864-4190