photography by Jeff Harris
Styling by Thom Driver | October 18, 2011 | Watches & Jewelry
For the individual who enjoys standing out in a crowd, these watches are from independent watchmakers and offer high-tech movements and cases—toys of ultimate distinction.
FAR LEFT: Richard Mille Automatic RM029 ($70,000): Made of titanium with a titanium rotor, base plate, bridges, and balance cock, and an oversize date. The skeletonization process of the caliber took more than 10 months to finalize.
TOP LEFT: Hautlence HLTi 1 ($44,300): A 43.5mm titaniumcase watch with a honeycomb skeleton dial. It houses a hand-wound Manufacture caliber with jumping hours and retrograde minutes via an extraordinary patented system. Limited edition of just 28 pieces.
CENTER: Devon Tread 1 ($17,500): Crafted in stainless steel and featuring a patent-pending system of interwoven Time Belts that displays the hours, minutes, and seconds. Four compact microstep motors drive the four belts via a lubricant-free pulley system.
BOTTOM: MB&F Horological Machine No. 2 ($80,000): Crafted in 18k white gold, it is the first instantaneous jumping-hour watch with concentric retrograde minutes (right dial), retrograde date, bi-hemisphere moon phase (left dial), and automatic winding. The movement consists of 349 components, including 44 jewels.
Sophisticated Inner Workings
A complicated piece is one that houses some of watchmaking’s greatest achievements: minute repeaters, perpetual calendars, and more. Tourbillons are among the most coveted complication. These fine features utilize a constantly moving escapement designed to compensate for errors in timekeeping caused by the effects of gravity when the watch is in certain positions.
LEFT: A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Tourbillon “Homage to F.A. Lange” ($171,800): Crafted in Lange’s own 18k honey-colored gold, just 150 of these pieces were made. The 381-part caliber L961.2 manually wound movement has a one-minute tourbillon with patented stop seconds and an outsize date. Liljenquist & Beckstead, Tysons Galleria, 703-448-6731
TOP LEFT: Jacob & Co. Limited Edition Crystal Tourbillon ($900,000): A 47mm 18k white-gold case set with 17.48 carats of baguette diamonds on the case and another 1.60 carats around the dial. The movement is the Jacob & Co. caliber 7 skeleton manual-winding tourbillon.
CENTER: Piaget Polo Tourbillon Relatif ($316,000): This limited edition piece features the patented Piaget 608P mechanical hand-wound flying tourbillon movement. The escapement is suspended from the minute hand and rotates once per minute on its own axis; it completes one rotation around the dial per hour. Finks Jewelers, Tysons Corner Center, McLean, 703-584-3101
FAR RIGHT: Girard-Perregaux Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges ($195,040): Its 18k pink-gold exterior houses the GP9600C automatic caliber with 30 jewels. It offers tourbillon, hour, minute, and small seconds indication on the tourbillon. Limited edition of 50 pieces.
Casual Watch Appeal
Retro appeal is important in a watch wardrobe—it offers a vintage look without the price tag of a vintage watch. These pieces are all about a casual, comfortable fit for the weekend.
BOTTOM LEFT: Baume & Mercier Hampton Men’s ($3,450): Crafted in stainless steel with sub-seconds at six o’clock and date indication. Tourneau, Fashion Centre at Pentagon City, 1100 S. Hayes St., Arlington, 703-414-8463
TOP LEFT: TechnoMarine Cruise Original Star 45mm ($550): A chronograph in a rosegold PVD case and bezel with a transparent case cover and chocolate-brown silicone strap. Radcliffe Jewelers, 1848 Reistertown Road, Baltimore, MD, 410-484-2900
CENTER: TW Steel CEO Tonneau ($897): Stainless steel and rose-gold-plated chronograph with an OS25 movement accurate up to one-twentieth of a second. Chas Schwartz & Son, 5300 Wisconsin Ave. NW, 202-363-5432
TOP RIGHT: Invicta S1 Touring Chrono ($995): Crafted in stainless steel with a carbon fiber dial, date display, and Tritnite luminous hands. Water resistant to 100 meters. Tourneau, Fashion Centre at Pentagon City, Arlington, 703-414-8463
FAR RIGHT: Hamilton Jazzmaster Tonneau Chrono ($795): With a quartz caliber, this piece is made of stainless steel and has a brown leather strap. Tourneau, Fashion Centre at Pentagon City, Arlington, 703-414-8463
A Bold Choice
Certain watch brands are sound investments whose regular appearances at auctions are validation of their icon status. These pieces will never lose their value..
TOP LEFT: Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 45.5mm ($7,600): Crafted in grade-5 titanium with ceramic and Liquidmetal bezel, and water resistant to 600 meters. It houses the Omega Co-Axial Calibre 8500, a self-winding COSC-certified chronometer with a silicon balance spring. Tysons Galleria, 571-633- 9710
CENTER: Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph Perpetual Calendar Boutique New York ($62,000): Created to celebrate the brand’s first boutique in the US, it houses the Calibre 1136 QP movement and features the colors of the American flag.
TOP RIGHT: Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711/1A ($25,400): Forged from steel with an in-house mechanical movement, and powered by an extra-heavy 21k gold central rotor. Liljenquist & Beckstead, Tysons Galleria, 703-448-6731
BOTTOM: Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner Date ($8,000): A COSC-certified chronometer that is made of steel, is pressure-proof, and is water resistant up to 1,000 feet. Tiny Jewel Box, 1147 Connecticut Ave. NW, 202-393-2747
There is nothing quite like a power-player watch, a sophisticated statement-maker that does certain jobs for you—and subtly says you have arrived.
BOTTOM LEFT: IWC Portuguese Chronograph ($15,600): Mechanical chronograph self-winding movement with 44 hours of power reserve, in 18k rose gold with black alligator strap. Stopwatch function with minutes and seconds, and small hackings seconds. Liljenquist & Beckstead, Tysons Galleria, 703-448-6731
TOP LEFT: Harry Winston Midnight Big Date ($30,700): In rose gold with a silver dial on an alligator strap. Features off-centered hours and minutes, and a twin-aperture date display at six o’clock. Radcliffe Jewelers, 825 Dulaney Valley Road, Towson, MD, 410-321-6590
CENTER: Carl F. Bucherer Patravi hronoDate Annual Calendar ($42,000): Chronograph with big date at 12 o’clock, annual calendar, COSC-certified chronometer and 18k rose-gold bracelet.
TOP RIGHT: Ralph Lauren Sporting World Time ($26,000): In 18k rose gold on a black alligator strap, with dual time-zone capability and made of 305 components with 34 jewels. Special order, 1245 Wisconsin Ave. NW, 202-965-0905
BOTTOM RIGHT: Cartier Calibre de Cartier Multi-Time Zone ($39,300): An 18k rose-gold piece housing the 287-part Caliber 9909 MC and offering home time, travel time, day/ night indications, and the difference between the two selected time zones. 5471B Wisconsin Ave., Chevy Chase, MD, 301-654-5858
Styling by Thom Driver for Halley Resources. hautlence courtesy of totallyworthit.com